Nestled just outside Bath lies Norton St Philip, a small West Country village that feels like a journey back in time. A quintessential stop on any Somerset tour, Norton St Philip is famous for its historic coaching inn, The George, but its appeal goes far beyond just one landmark.
This charming hamlet was the site of a brutal 17th-century battle when the streets ran red with blood. For lovers of secret tunnels, narrow alleys, and picturesque cottages, Norton St Philip is an essential addition to your travel bucket list.
In 2022, Liz Matthews shared with SomersetLive how she fell in love with the village’s quintessential English character. “My husband brought me to The George on our first date,” she revealed. He, an architect, admired the inn’s unique outside gallery leading to the toilets—a detail that enchanted them both. Liz soon noticed visitors pausing by the old pump outside her cottage, sparking her curiosity about the village’s rich history. During lockdown, she created a free walking tour for locals to experience Norton’s past firsthand.
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Liz’s Battlefield Trail offers a glimpse into village life in the 17th century. The old manor house and farm walls still stand on North Street, which was the main road to Bath at the time. In June 1685, Norton St Philip erupted into violence as the village became a battleground during the Monmouth Rebellion. The Duke of Monmouth set up headquarters at The George, narrowly escaping a bullet that shattered a first-floor window. The following day, North Street became a fierce battlefield as Monmouth’s men clashed with the forces of King James II.
Blood reportedly flowed down the village streets from fierce fighting at the barricade. Though Monmouth’s forces lost few men, 12 villagers were executed for treason afterward—a grim chapter that forms the heart of Liz’s walking tour. But Norton’s stories don’t end there.
The George Inn is believed to date back to the 13th century, originally established to accommodate visitors to the nearby Hinton Priory. Legend tells of a secret tunnel connecting the priory to the inn, used in foul weather—rumors say it still exists today.
Beyond The George, visitors will find a 14th-century church, one of England’s smallest village commons, and a Tudor dovecote that once housed up to 800 birds for the manor. The village remains lively and welcoming, with locals eager to exchange friendly greetings or share tales over a pint.
Matt, a resident living in the former milking parlour of the manor’s farm, reflects, “I moved here for the bus route to Bath, but now I’m surrounded by history.” His home neighbors the old tithe barn, while the Tudor rose still adorns the dovecote’s masonry roof nearby.
Every corner of Norton St Philip reveals a fragment of its rich heritage—even street names tell stories from centuries ago. Bell Hill, for example, recalls an ingenious system tied to The George’s courtyard bell. Coal wagons traveling from Radstock needed help ascending the steep hill. To summon aid, drivers pulled a rope that rang a bell, signaling a lone cart-horse to descend, hitch the wagon, and pull it uphill. The horse earned a small reward before automatically returning to its stable—a testament to local ingenuity.
To truly appreciate Norton St Philip’s history and charm, climb Bell Hill yourself and then enjoy a refreshing pint at The George. The breathtaking views are a perfect end to a day steeped in centuries of English heritage.