Grace Dent, the esteemed restaurant critic and MasterChef judge, has singled out two Bristol eateries – Ragù and Lapin – as her favourite dining spots, describing both as “absolute gems.” At 52, Grace has recently joined the amateur cooking competition’s judging panel alongside chef Anna Haugh, further cementing her status in the culinary world.
Known for her previous work on MasterChef’s celebrity edition with John Torode and appearances on shows like The Professionals and Great British Menu, Grace’s demanding schedule meant she spent less time visiting restaurants over the past year. However, this made the moments she did spend dining out all the more memorable, with restaurants impressing her through “zinging hospitality” and “heart-thumpingly good food.”
In her Guardian column last year, she highlighted Ragù and Lapin, both housed in converted shipping containers at Bristol’s Wapping Wharf harbourside development.
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Describing Lapin, Grace called it a “peculiar, meta, slightly earnest and definitely delicious” taste of France. The menu features dishes such as asparagus with sauce gribiche, gnocchi Parisienne, and rabbit – or lapin – when available from local hunters. Lapin, run by Dan O’Regan and Jack Briggs-Horan, offers a “fresh, modern take” on traditional French cuisine using exceptional UK and European ingredients. Grace also enjoyed the restaurant’s 1980s French pop soundtrack and the refreshing “mint-green, menthe-over-club-soda diabolo,” which evoked what she called “French exchange school trip vibes.”
Yet it was Ragù that truly captivated Grace, whom she hailed as experiencing the greatest dinner she has had in years. She praised the flawless cooking behind dishes like crespelle in rich tomato brodo, artichoke fritti, and chocolate budino with sour cherries and amaretti – all served in unpretentious surroundings.
Ragù is the creation of Karen and Mark Chapman, a married couple who met in Australia before settling in Bristol. Their passion for Italian cuisine shines through their emphasis on quality ingredients, simple preparation, and heartfelt hospitality. The restaurant caters to a variety of dining experiences, whether an intimate solo visit, a full family feast, or just a shared tiramisu.
The menu at Ragù evolves with the seasons, reflecting the Chapmans’ commitment to sustainability and exceptional hospitality. They also operate the COR restaurant, maintaining these values across their venues.
Grace Dent will return to screens on BBC One at 9pm for the new series of MasterChef, where she will evaluate six new amateur cooks, including a tattoo artist and a retired US diplomat.