William Sitwell, the MasterChef judge and publican who took the helm at The White Hart in Wiveliscombe, Somerset, last December, has expressed apprehension about how Veganuary might affect his business. Sitwell, who openly described his new role as “hell,” worries that the rise of veganism combined with Dry January could severely impact the traditional pub trade.
In a column for The Telegraph, Sitwell painted Veganuary and Dry January as detrimental forces for the hospitality sector — “like a pair of grim reapers standing sentinel at the door.” Traditionally, January has been a slow month for pubs after the Christmas rush, but these new trends appear to extend that lull.
He also shared his views on vegan dishes, highlighting the greater time and effort required to prepare vegetable-centric meals. He argues that vegan dishes, such as cauliflower steaks, arguably should be priced higher than meat dishes due to their preparation complexity — a view that has sparked debate.
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Sitwell’s relationship with veganism has been marked by controversy in the past. In 2018, he resigned as editor of Waitrose Food after making a regrettable joke about killing vegans in an email correspondence. He quickly apologized, emphasizing his respect for all dietary choices and expressing remorse for any offense caused.
While the exact number of vegans in the UK remains untracked by official statistics, the Vegan Society estimates that around 3% of the UK population identify as vegan. Interestingly, the South West region, where Sitwell’s pub is located, reportedly has a higher vegan population at around 4%.
As plant-based lifestyles continue to grow, Sitwell’s concerns reflect the wider challenges faced by traditional hospitality venues navigating changing consumer trends.