Ilfracombe, a picturesque coastal town in North Devon, is renowned for its stunning beaches, scenic South West coastal path, and vibrant harbour filled with shops, eateries, and the striking Bronze Verity sculpture by Damian Hirst. Visitors flock here, drawn by its charm and relaxed atmosphere.
Tourist Becky, visiting from County Durham, praised Ilfracombe wholeheartedly. “It’s beautiful and so different from where we live. The weather is better, the people are so friendly, and it’s affordable. Even when it rains, there are indoor things to do like visiting the aquarium,” she said. When asked if she would change anything, her quick response was, “Not a damn thing.”
Yet beneath the surface, locals express deep concerns about the town’s future. Housing, the deteriorating high street, and a sense that Ilfracombe is losing its unique character trouble many residents.
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Once a thriving Victorian seaside resort, Ilfracombe still boasts tall, often five-storey Victorian buildings, which lend historic charm but also create problems. Michelle, owner of View Apartments, highlighted the impracticality of these homes: “A big issue is the Victorian housing. The council wants to keep the historic look, but many buildings are empty or derelict. These old houses have no lifts, making them unsuitable for elderly residents or families wanting modern spaces. They’re expensive to maintain and inefficient—single-glazed windows lose heat and aren’t environmentally friendly.” Parking and affordability are also pushing locals away.
North Devon Council is actively addressing these issues. In December 2024, they secured nearly £2 million to launch the Ilfracombe Healthy Homes project aimed at improving housing standards and security. Plans include converting empty properties on the High Street into 14 social rent homes and developing 16 additional homes on the Bicclescombe Nursery site in collaboration with the Ilfracombe Community Land Trust.
Tourism remains the town’s economic lifeblood. Ben Fielding, who runs Adrift Ocean on the Quay, stressed, “I love the summer buzz. Without tourists, the town would crumble.” However, many young people leave to find better job prospects elsewhere. The council notes that, besides tourism, Ilfracombe hosts several high-tech employers, such as TDK Lambda and Cytiva, providing skilled, well-paid jobs.
Safety and social issues worry some residents. Reports of anti-social behaviour, often linked to alcohol and drugs, persist despite police efforts. Sector Inspector Rich Preston acknowledged ongoing challenges but emphasized a firm focus on tackling street drinking and related behaviour through patrols, legal orders, and coordination with local partners.
The state of the high street fuels frustration. Alec, a local shop owner, described it as “an opportunity wasted” with many vacant and neglected premises. Longtime residents mourn the loss of familiar stores like Subway, Costa, the market, butchers, and others, reflecting a broader decline in local retail and amenities.
Public conveniences also reflect signs of decay. Vandalism at the Wilder Road toilets has left them in poor condition, with rubbish and graffiti making them unpleasant and in some cases unusable. The council responds with regular cleaning and appeals for public vigilance against vandalism.
Despite these hardships, Ilfracombe’s strong community spirit remains a beacon of hope. Darren of St James' Tea Room praised the town’s friendliness and supportiveness, sentiments echoed by long-time resident Linda, who stated, “The community is what makes Ilfracombe – it’s friendly, kind, and caring.” The council agrees, acknowledging the town’s vibrant community groups and active residents committed to improving life in Ilfracombe.
Ilfracombe’s beauty and close-knit community provide a solid foundation, but without addressing housing, economic, and social challenges, the town’s future identity hangs in the balance.