George Livesey, chef-owner of Bristol’s acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurant Bulrush, admits he is still surprised the venue remains open given the current difficulties facing the hospitality industry. Opening in 2014, Bulrush celebrated its Michelin Star in 2016 and is soon marking a decade in business.
In a candid interview with Restaurant Online, Livesey shared, “I love Bulrush, but it doesn’t make any money. I was naïve when I set this place up—I didn’t really think about generating a profit. I just wanted to cook. To be honest, I’m a little surprised I’m still here.”
Bulrush earned its Michelin recognition in its third year, at a time when Bristol boasted more Michelin-starred restaurants than today. The city now has only two, including Wilsons, which earned its star in February 2024. George described the current environment as a “tough market,” noting that many chefs at a similar level managed to persevere until the Covid-19 pandemic forced closures or a shift in business models.
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Upon reopening after lockdowns, Bulrush experienced a surge in customers, but financial gains only lasted about a year. Last year, the restaurant saw a 35% decrease in revenue compared to the previous year.
Reflecting on Bristol’s dining scene, George said, “The fact that Bristol is no longer considered a hotspot for fine dining doesn’t help. We used to get a lot of visitors drawn in by places like Casamia, Wilks, Paco Tapas, and Birch—all of which have now closed.” He added, “Locals appreciate top restaurants but often don’t want to spend much, which has led to a rise in small plates venues. While those places often serve tasty food, it’s frustrating because we use far better ingredients, perform more sophisticated techniques, yet only charge a bit more.”
Currently, Bulrush offers a nine-course tasting menu at £90, an early evening menu at £65, and a lunch option priced at £48.
In March 2024, BristolLive visited Bulrush when it was Bristol’s only Michelin-starred restaurant. George shared his pride in maintaining the restaurant’s standards despite the challenges: “It’s a daily struggle, especially after eight years. There are some amazing restaurants in Bristol. We are one of the cheapest Michelin-starred places in the UK. The ingredient quality matches many London restaurants, but London prices can be three times higher, which can get frustrating.”
Though publishers have approached him to write a cookbook, George’s priority remains making Bulrush financially sustainable. “Bulrush has been amazing, but I definitely want to push further while I’m still young enough to do it. Running a restaurant takes a lot physically. As long as we’re happy cooking and the business is viable, we’ll keep trying to improve.”
He also highlighted the advantage of owning the property outright, which lessens financial pressures many restaurants face. “If I was renting, I don’t think we’d still be here. We’re paying a mortgage, but it’s less than a lease would cost. Running a restaurant is like gambling—you’re up sometimes and down sometimes. The question is when to call it a day. If I ever have to borrow money just to keep Bulrush open, I’ll close it.”
Regarding future plans, George revealed ideas for a second, more casual venture focusing on one star dish, such as rotisserie chicken. However, he emphasized caution: “I wouldn’t want to compromise what we do here. I’d rather close than let things slide.”